Comme des Garçons

To me, fashion falls into one of two categories. It can be instantly appealing and you would like to wear it; or it is something you wouldn't necessarily wear but it is driving fashion forward. --Grace Coddington in Grace: A Memoir (327)

Comme des Garçons is unlike most other high-end fashion labels, with clothes more akin to stylized sculpture than fashion. The brand's aesthetic definitely falls into Grace's second category of fashion, where you wouldn't necessarily wear the clothes, but they nonetheless drive fashion forward.

Rei Kawakubo

Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo's clothes are based on concepts, not utility. Since its founding in 1969, Comme des Garçons has sought to represent the woman "who is not swayed by what her husband thinks" (Kawakubo quoted in Voguepedia).  Her early pieces eschew symmetry and look destroyed or deconstructed--imagine three-armed jackets and face-shielding turtlenecks (Nymag.com).  

Fashion buffs often cite Kawakubo's spring 1997 Paris show as classic Comme des Garçons. The show, infamously known as the "lump and bumps" or "tumours" collection, caused a furor in the fashion community when she sent models down the runway wearing outrageously bulgy outfits. 

The "tumours" collection

Comme des Garçons' daring is also demonstrated in the spring 2000 collection, where she showed garments that looked like the paper patterns of clothes rather than the actual cloth clothes themselves. In everything Kawakubo does, she challenges consumers and, by extension, consumerist culture.

Paper doll clothes, anyone?

Even the first Comme des Garçons fragrance, Odeur 53, isn't obviously saleable. Launched in 1998, this "anti-perfume" is a unisex fragrance with 53 different notes, such as nail polish and burnt rubber (Voguepedia). 

Odeur 53 fragrance

Kawakubo's stores aren't inviting either. In 2004, for example, Comme des Garçons began to roll out a series of guerrilla pop-up shops in offbeat locations away from traditional fashion capitals. The interior of the shop in Basil, Switzerland, is just racks of clothes set in an old factory with cement flooring and nothing else, not even a chair to sit on (see below).



Because Comme des Garçons is irreverent, too, the label doesn't hesitate to mix "high" and "low" fashion. Kawakubo was invited and accepted the task to produce a guest collection for H&M in 2008. “What’s interesting about collaborations," she says, "is the possibility for one plus one to equal three." Selling to the middle- to low-income bracket is not a dilution of the brand: it's a creative opportunity.

For H&M

My favourite Kawakubo show, in fact, is the one where she created beautiful, intellectually provocative clothes out of recycled fabrics, a challenge to high/low as well as old/new.

Clothes made out of recycled fabrics.

Although, as some observers contend, Kawakubo's designs have become less rebellious over the years due to her use of so-called traditional patterns and materials, such as gold- and silver-flecked tweed and floral motifs, her work still manages to conflate fashion and art.

Whatever the final verdict on Kawakubo's later work, Voguepedia authors say Comme des Garçons' influence on the history of fashion is equal to that of Balenciaga or Chanel. The ideas behind her work transform fashion into an irony-laden post-modern art form; Kawakubo challenges the idea of wearable, consumable fashion yet owns a $180 million business. She's the Salvador Dalí of clothes designers.

For Vogue, September 2007

Fall 2009 collection

An assemblage of past Comme des Garçons shows

Things I Love: July 2013

I have something to confess, of which I'm deeply ashamed: I'm a "closet" bag lady. It all started innocuously enough. A click here, a click there. Before I knew it, though, I was hooked--bad.

Little Black Bag is partly to blame. Not only does it offer up to 70 percent off designer makeup, sunglasses, and jewelry, but it also offers high discounts on brand name bags (e.g.,  Vince Camuto, Betsey Johnson, Kensie). 

But there's a twist on how you get the goods. First, you sign up for free and complete a personal style questionnaire. Then you shop for an item of your choosing, and based on your preferences, the site's stylists pick one to three other items for you. Before you buy, you swap the items with other customers on the site--think Pokémon trading cards--until you're satisfied with what's in your "little black bag." The last step, of course, is purchasing your loot and getting it shipped. Voilà!

And if you're a little short on cash (like me), you can still easily get your bag "fix" by browsing Bag Snob and PurseBlog. 

Bag Snob, founded by entrepreneurs Tina Craig and Kelly Cook, is a selective editorial on bags. You can read about bag designers in the Snob Files, find out about the best bags to have recently come down the runway, and get a heads up on big sales (Hérmes discounts, anyone?). 

PurseBlog is similar to Bag Snob insofar as you get the lowdown on the most au courant bags. However, the site also features monthly giveaways, exclusive designer interviews, and an online community for bag-a-holics called the Purse Forum.

Let's say you're not well versed in bag-ology, that you're a new "user": you just need to click on BagBible to find out more, especially the article on Types of Bags. You don't want to confuse a baguette bag with a satchel, do you? Bag ladies know how to identify the "good stuff."

Now that I've let you all know about my bag struggles, let me indulge in one last "trip" before I kick the addiction for good . . .

Barbara Bui

Dior 

Jil Sander, $590

Sylvia Toledano, $2,100

Dolce & Gabbana, $3,040 

Prada

Lena Erziak, approx. $735

Valextra, $4,860

Givenchy, $3,125

Stefano, approx. $260

There. I've quit. (I think . . . )

Andrej Pejic

Marc Jacobs, Carine Roitfeld, John Galliano, Raf Simons, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vogue, Numero, Elle, W—every aspiring female model dreams of working with such high-profile designers and magazines. Enter Andrej Pejic, who’s done all that and more.

And Pejic is transgendered.

Pejic for Dossier Journal

S/he’s often described as an “anti-establishment” figure among fashion folk. Perhaps that’s because Pejic is the first male-to-female model to ever walk a couture show. Or perhaps it’s because Pejic famously said, “I’m just a silly Caucasian girl who likes to play with samurai swords.” 

Pejic walking the SS 2011 J.P.G show

"I would like to live in a world where your gender, nationality, sexual orientation, and, above all, financial
status didn't affect the opportunities you are given in life, the way you're treated by others, and your overall freedom."   —Andrej Pejic, quoted in OUT

Born in war-torn Bosnia, Pejic and family immigrated to Melbourne, Australia, in the 1990s. The six-foot-tall model was eventually discovered, of all places, manning the cash at McDonald’s (pun intended). By June 2010, during the Paris men’s shows, people started taking notice of Pejic, asking, “Who’s that blonde girl?” (WWD).

In January the next year, the model walked for Jean Paul Gaultier in his men's show and became the designer’s muse—an unparalleled honour in the fashion industry. Later in 2011, OUT named Pejic as one of the most compelling people of the year.

Karolina Kurkova and Andrej Pejic for J.P.G.

Pejic (right) for Numéro

Pejic for Dazed & Confused

Now the model’s sculptured, androgynous face can be seen all over the world. So, I put the question out there: Is the fashion industry forever changed by gender-benders like Pejic, or is androgyny simply another fad? Judging by the newfound celebrity of Bryan Boy and Saskia de Brauw, the Pejics of the world just might have a fashion future.

Check out Pejic in David Bowie's music video, "The Stars (Are Out Tonight)."

Grace Coddington: A Memoir

"To me, fashion falls into one of two categories. It can be instantly appealing and you would like to wear it; or it is something you wouldn’t necessarily wear but it is driving fashion forward." -Grace Coddington

Who is Grace Coddington?

Even after reading Grace’s memoir, I’m still not sure I can answer that question; her book was not so much a soul-searching journey to the past as much as a quick overview of events and ideas that have shaped the model-turned-creative director of Vogue.

Grace Coddington, 72

But I am okay with that—Grace’s talent lies in composing photographs, not prose.

As you may or may not already know, Grace’s name entered pop culture with a bang when The September Issue (2009) was released. She was a grudging participant in the film, which documented her and Anna Wintour’s hot-and-cold professional relationship—a relationship that, nonetheless, has resulted in mesmerizing fashion editorials.

Before her gig as creative director, Grace was a Vogue cover model, whose camera-ready “characters” (she insists she was not a “pretty” model) attained icon status.

Grace's iconic five-point cut by Vidal Sassoon

A bad car accident that happened when her career began to take off changed all that. One of her eyelids was torn away; five plastic surgeries later, Grace's face still didn't look quite right.

She began thinking about entering other aspects of fashion when someone well placed told her, rather bluntly, “Grace, you should become a fashion editor. You’re too old to be a model” (86). She soon began a job at British Vogue as a junior fashion editor.

Grace modelling with cat

Once she'd decided to move to the States, Grace became the design director at Calvin Klein. I love how candidly she owns up to the fact she wasn’t the right “fit” for the new role:

The head designer in my department … was prompted to create a stole in heavy duchesse satin decorated with motifs taken from the ceiling of the Alhambra Palace in Granada. The stole was then beaded in Paris by Lesage, the celebrated couture embroiderer who had worked with every grand fashion house from Yves Saint Laurent and Dior to Schiaparelli and Chanel. As you can imagine, it turned out to be probably the most expensive stole in the world, and if I had been more objective, I would have seen that it was not a suitable item to include in a collection of what, after all, was a sportswear company.

When Grace finally began working with Anna Wintour at Vogue, everything fell into place. Despite both of them being uncompromising visionaries, who butt heads from time to time, Anna maintains that the day Grace quits, she will quit, too.

Self-portrait

"Do I dream predominantly about fashion? No. I dream much more about cats."

Grace's  cats

My top three picks of G.C.'s work:

Stylist: Grace Coddington; Photographer: Norman Parkinson (1971)

Stylist: Grace Coddington; Photographer: Ellen von Unwerth (1992)

Stylist: Grace Coddington; Photographer: Annie Leibovitz (2009)

Stephan Caras

I walked into my first maison couture ("fashion house") last month: Toronto's very own Stephan Caras. 

Maison Caras is a 100-year-old historic building, the interior outfitted to reproduce the look and feel of its European counterparts. Located on Queen Street East, the imposing structure (it used to be the Canadian Bank of Commerce) features two large display windows that showcase Caras's latest runway creations. In a word, posh.

A sensual vintage Caras dress.

It's "fitting" that Maison Caras is meant to evoke Old World style: the designer (above left) was born in Greece. In addition to training at two international fashion-design schools in Melbourne, Australia, Caras worked for Guy Laroche and Hermès Paris in Europe. 

His aesthetic is sensual, minimalist, and feminine, with a focus on creating well-draped and -tailored outfits. While most of Caras's collections are based on the colour black, he is not afraid to use bolder hues.

Random fact: Caras designed the Tim Hortons uniforms in 2001. Two Canadian icons joined forces to deliver your double-double and apple fritter in style!

Son and heir apparent Kyriako Caras (below) will be taking over Maison Caras when Stephan retires.

Click here to see a trailer for the house's FW 2012 collection. These are my top Caras picks:

Stella McCartney

Olga Kurylenko's Stella McCartney dress had me drooling today (see below).

 Actress Olga Kurylenko wearing a Stella McCartney Pre-fall 2013 dress.

So I decided to investigate Stella's smallish brand--surprising given her famous dad, Paul McCartney--in better detail.

McCartney's designs can be described as well tailored and a little bit slouchy, with some filmy lingerie and sportiness thrown in. Judging by what I've seen, too, her styles are always "ready-to-wear," so to speak. "I'm always designing what I want to wear," she said in an interview for Vogue.

McCartney riding into the sunset for fashion photographer Annie Liebovitz (2004).

McCartney, ever sensitive to animal welfare issues, likes to also make clothes with a conscience. She refuses to use leather or fur in her designs, although items may be made with byproducts like wool. In addition, McCartney's brand focuses on sustainability, as demonstrated by the company statement:

We think that being modern means considering the future, not just the future of design, but also the future of the planet. We are dedicated to helping change people’s perception of eco fashion. We think that sustainability can take the form of beautiful and modern clothing and accessories.

Do you like Stella yet? If you're still in doubt, please keep scrolling to see the fabulous "form" her current designs take.

Summer 2013

Summer 2013

Adidas by Stella McCartney

Adidas by Stella McCartney

Adidas by Stella McCartney

Organdy Moira Shirt: Sheer shirt in cotton silk organdy with fabric layer feature. Pointed collar, two front pockets, and concealed button closure on front. Relaxed fit. 

Mix Cady Elia Dress: Bold blue long sleeved dress with placed ornate floral print in contrast orange and black. High round neckline and cinched waist. Zip closure at back.

Cutwork Embroidery Berna Shorts: High-waisted shorts featuring embroidered geometric patterns and cut out shapes with a metallic finish. Fitted and back zip closure.

Citrus Floral Jacquard Roman Jacket:Tailored straight fit jacket in floral jacquard. Slim lapel, single breasted with three pocket details and signature four button cuff. Fully lined.

Compact Felted Wool Jenny Coat: Compact coat in smoke tone and felted wool. Fitted shape with darts, high neck and three pockets. Hidden button closure and fully lined.

Fluo Jacquard Portland Pant: Fluo jacquard slim fit cropped trousers with turn ups. Flat front closure and hidden slant pockets.

Tapered Trousers: Black tapered trousers with two side pockets featuring an elasticated waist band and ankle bands.

Bark Textured 3D Tufted Jumper: Artisan-knit jumper combines chunky alpaca, silk, wool with Geelong wool and mohair in tufted 3D geometric pattern in gray tones. Exaggerated length sleeves.

Itsy Bitsy Falabella Tote: This tote bag with tufted three dimensional textured panels is made from the wool of Stella McCartney’s own sheep. The flock live on her organically-run farm in the English countryside and the bag is named after two of them, Itsy and Bitsy.

Ring: Solid color, Engraved logo, Contrasting applications, brass.

Autumn 2013

Autumn 2013

Autumn 2013

Parting thought: Happiness is not a warm gun--it's a warm Stella McCartney jacket!